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Air-conditioned long-term storage in the prefabricated garage: air-conditioned garage built by yourself

Kay Hottendorff
Air-conditioned long-term storage in the prefabricated garage
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P there are professional solutions for the air-conditioned storage of collector vehicles plentiful on the market. Storage in the air-conditioned glass box with a provider of long-term vehicle storage is certainly the nicest. Most beautiful, but unfortunately not exactly cheap. More affordable and therefore more common are those modern airtight plastic bladders with zip fasteners, equipped with dehumidifier cartridges based on silica gel or with fans for permanent air exchange, depending on the manufacturer and product.

But what to do if you have the best possible vehicle would like to be in stock, but only have an unheated prefabricated garage in size available? Such standard garages are often too narrow for off-the-peg solutions and these solutions also do not offer frost-free solutions. The answer is as simple as it is consistent: build it yourself!

The components required are standard hardware store products: roof battens, styrofoam sheets, vapor barrier film and adhesive tape, self-adhesive rubber seals, angles, carriage bolts, wing nuts and washers, hygrometers and thermometers as well as a frost guard are cheap to buy. There is also a ceramic fan heater and an electric dehumidifier and around 6 kg of silica gel. These ingredients can be used to create a dry and frost-free space for long-term storage of a car. However, a little manual skill is essential.

In 16 steps to your own air-conditioned garage

  1. First, a sturdy cage made of roof battens is built into the garage. The roof battens should be attached to the floor and ceiling as well as the walls.
  2. A rectangular frame serves as a closure towards the garage door. Later a lid will close the airtight space here. In the area of ​​the garage door, make sure that the door above the cage can still open (here the frame must be designed lower and sloped into the room. It is helpful to measure and mark the door opening angle in different positions. The lower cross member of the The frame should be easy to dismantle so that the vehicle can later be rolled into the garage.
  3. The next step is to build a second frame for the cover, which rests flush on the cage frame. Diagonal brace (s) for stability as well as a small frame for a control window (see photo show)forgotten.
  4. Provide the frame of the lid with regular holes (e.g. 14 pieces of 200 mm each). Place the cover on the inner frame and also mark the holes there. Drill the inner frame thinner and horizontally (!) (10 mm). Long M10 wrench screws are now inserted from the inside and the screw heads are knocked into the wood with a hammer. The frame should now slide easily and flush onto the protruding screws. The lid is attached later with large washers and wing nuts. Dismantle the cover again.
  5. Run two extension cables from an existing power connection into the interior.
  6. Fill the spaces between the battens on the wall and ceiling and in the cover with 60 mm thick styrofoam sheets. Fastening to the (suspended) ceiling is much easier if the spacing of the roof battens is based on the size of the styrofoam panels from the outset.
  7. Line the entire interior of the cage with vapor barrier film (building materials trade for loft conversions) without any gaps. Select screws with washers in the upper area for fastening. Carefully and airtightly glue the overlaps of the film with the appropriate professional adhesive tape. The introduction of the extension cables is also good - and draft-free! - glue. Allow the film to protrude generously in the area of ​​the entrance, fold it outwards and fasten it. Do not attach the foil to the lower cross bar, just fold it neatly downwards.
  8. Now also wrap the lid all around in foil. Before doing this, screw a sturdy plastic window (e.g. Plexiglas) onto the small inner frame and glue it airtight to the vapor barrier film. The thermometer or hygrometer can later be read through the window.
  9. Now carefully cut out the drill holes in both frames (inside and cover) and, if necessary, reinforce them with adhesive tape. Cover the inside of the lid frame with self-adhesive rubber seals.
  10. To retract the vehicle, temporarily remove the lower cross member (threshold) and lay out the lower film smoothly. Then install it again as usual.
  11. To ensure that it is frost-free, install a ceramic fan heater properly and connect it to an electronic thermostat with one of the extension cables. Program the thermostat appropriately.
  12. To achieve a low level of humidity, install an electric dehumidifier and connect it with the second extension cable. The device ensures quick dehumidification even if the vehicle was not completely dry. Question: Why the second cable? Answer: The second cable can be used to disconnect the device from the outside when the humidity is low.
  13. In addition, around 6 kg of silica gel (for approx. 30 cubic meters of space) in several open vessels inside and outside the Distribute the vehicle. Across fromCommercially available dehumidifier salts do not dust silica gel and thus reduce the risk of corrosion (flash rust). The gel ensures a continuously low level of humidity, even if the electric dehumidifier is switched off later. When exhausted (color change), the gel can also be regenerated in the oven.
  14. Leave at least one window in the vehicle open. Don't forget to protect against moths and rodents - if necessary, secure the window opening with rabbit cage wire.
  15. Attach a combined electronic thermometer & hygrometer to the control window from the inside. Attention: Do not mask the inlet opening of the device!
  16. Unscrew the lid and cover the inspection window with a fitted piece of styrofoam or a generously overlapping styrofoam flap. Done!

The story of Kay Hottendorffs Read Cord 812 here.

More information about his book ' The Fate of the Sleeping Beauties 'is available here.

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